by Dr. Leo Gilling
SOUTH FLORIDA – In delving into the colourful tapestry of Jamaica’s cultural and financial panorama, my latest journey to Coronation Market within the coronary heart of downtown Kingston, lovingly often called “Curnashan Mawkit” or “Duppy Market” by the locals, unveiled profound insights that resonated with my very own life experiences. As a rustic boy hailing from the plush hills of St. Mary, my ties to the bustling metropolis of Kingston run deep, intricately woven collectively by my mom’s indomitable spirit.
Coronation Market Higgler
Throughout the vigorous and transformative years of the Nineteen Sixties and Nineteen Seventies, she emerged as a trailblazing Northeastern higgler—although at the moment, the very time period was hardly acknowledged. A higgler is an itinerant dealer, which means they journey from place to position to promote their items. My mother was not solely a pioneer, however she was additionally extremely revered and profitable in her chosen entrepreneurship. Her stops included Boscobel, Stewart City, Three Hills, Charles City, Ocho Rios, and a number of other different districts throughout St. Mary and St. Ann.
Armed along with her trusted “dulcimina suitcase,” she navigated the colourful market scene with tenacity and style, cultivating a thriving enterprise that blossomed earlier than me. Her tireless efforts enabled her to buy three automobiles inside a powerful span of eight years and ultimately safe a spacious six-bedroom house, a testomony to her entrepreneurial spirit, by the late Nineteen Seventies.
Whereas the setting has shifted, I discover a hanging similarity between her journey and the dynamic distributors at Curnashan Mawkit, who hustle every day underneath the colourful awnings of the market construction. Every stall, brimming with recent produce, spices, and handmade items, echoes the identical willpower and ingenuity that characterised my mom’s personal quest to create a greater life. Their shared resilience and resourcefulness paint a vivid image of the unyielding spirit that defines {the marketplace} and the individuals who thrive inside it.
Familiarity with Kingston
This private narrative is not only a meandering account; it highlights my familiarity with Kingston and illustrates the transformative energy that native commerce wields over the lives of people and households. Rising up, I vividly recall the various occasions I accompanied my mom on our expeditions to downtown Kingston, particularly King Avenue, the buzzing purchasing space.
We might depart Oracabessa on public transportation like Victor and Mailbus providers and Mr. Piggy Transit minibuses and navigate the bustling streets by strolling, shifting from retailer to retailer looking for the very best merchandise for resale for our greenback spent. Purchasing ended at about 4 p.m. as we walked to West Avenue, the place we’d patiently await the journey again to the tranquil landscapes of St. Mary.
I as soon as believed that I had explored the colourful streets of Curnashan Mawkit throughout a earlier purchasing journey, however upon my latest go to, I used to be struck by the conclusion that I had by no means set foot on this bustling market. The environment felt unfamiliar, virtually like a scene pulled from a special time. The vigorous buzz that enveloped {the marketplace} final week mirrored the power it should have had fifty years earlier than.
Market’s Wealthy Historical past
This epiphany sparked a curiosity inside me in regards to the market’s wealthy historical past; it turned clear that I had by no means really skilled the essence of Curnashan Mawkit earlier than. As my mates and I arrived there final week, I discovered myself grappling with a wave of psychological challenges, largely fueled by anxiousness.
My thoughts flooded with unsettling tales of gang violence and impending hazard. I couldn’t shake the worry of being forcibly yanked from my automobile at gunpoint. As we moved by way of the realm, I saved my home windows shut and my doorways locked. I wished to guard myself from the chaos exterior. A persistent sense of unease gripped me, amplified by the heavy visitors movement surrounding the market.
The only-lane roads, cluttered with distributors, customers, and plenty of automobiles, solely heightened my frustration. Different occasions, whereas I drove by way of this space, trying to hurry to the airport, I discovered myself ensnared in a gridlock that felt inescapable. My anxiousness intertwined with the concern of what may unfold round me. I used to be continually preoccupied with ideas of lacking my flight, trapped in a whirlwind of uncertainty and pressure.
Regardless of my earlier apprehensions, Thursday’s go to unfolded as a outstanding alternative for development and discovery. Accompanied by a educated buddy who usually navigated the bustling market each different week, I felt a wave of aid wash over me, regularly easing the knots of fear that had tugged at my chest. For as soon as, I wasn’t sweating profusely, trapped in a frigid choke of worry, or frantically looking for an exit from this vibrant venue.
As we approached our vacation spot, the driving force identified the parking space nestled inside the Tivoli neighborhood. “Tivoli?” I questioned, a touch of confusion lacing my voice. “What are we doing in Tivoli?” But, virtually instinctively, I started to calm, shedding my issues in regards to the security of his automobile. He appeared unfazed, exuding confidence as he reassured me that after managing the bustling throng of “parking attendants,” we have been safer than if we have been enclosed in a steel-enforced jail. “The world is comparatively crime-free,” he declared with an assured smile. Although these phrases appeared virtually too good to be true, they wrapped round my anxieties like a soothing balm, quieting the storm inside.
As we made our method, the driving force captivated me with a wealthy historic narrative of the Coronation Market, weaving tales that traced its origins from the harrowing days of slavery to the pivotal second of emancipation. His vivid storytelling not solely quelled the remnants of my fears but in addition ignited a fervent educational curiosity inside me in regards to the socio-historical dynamics that underpinned the market. The tales painted a vivid image of resilience and transformation, intertwining the previous with the current in a method that made me wanting to discover additional.
Beneath the floor of Coronation Market lies a profound historical past, a silent testomony to the heartache of enslaved people who suffered immensely throughout the transatlantic commerce (Anderson, 2001). This layer of sorrow appears to whisper by way of the very soil, connecting the current to a painful previous. Nonetheless, throughout my two-hour go to, I used to be struck by the absence of seen reminders of such tragedy. As a substitute, I used to be enveloped in a vibrant tapestry of life that thrummed with power and resilience.
Kaleidoscope of Jamaican Items
The market was a feast for the senses, bursting with a kaleidoscope of Jamaican items that captivated my consideration. Spices wafted by way of the air, their attractive aromas swirling collectively to create a symphony of scents; oxtail seasoning, kitchen police, ital, dangerous nuh bitch, each likkle ting, spicy Fuck is, cinnamon leaf, cinnamon stick, and a bunch of different seasoning.
I used to be drawn to the earthy herbs, their vibrant greens promising recent flavors, and hearty yams stacked like golden treasures, every a testomony to the land’s richness. Solar-kissed coconuts beckoned with their promise of refreshing quench, whereas clusters of candy bananas added a pop of cheerful yellow to the scene.
Throughout me, the market buzzed with life. Individuals have been busy speaking and buying and selling. This power supported a vigorous native financial system. On this vivid environment, the spirit of resilience flourished, superbly juxtaposed towards the burden of its hidden historical past.
The environment crackled with the spirited sounds of bartering, laughter, and pleasant exchanges between consumers and sellers, presenting a stark distinction to the somber historical past typically related to the place. As I wandered by way of the vigorous stalls, a vendor’s voice rang out, “One pound 5 shillings fi pine!” Curiosity piqued, I approached her, “What does that imply? I requested. Solely to be met with a playful shrug. “I don’t know, ask my dad,” she stated, gesturing to her father beside her, who wore a broad, realizing grin.
Savoring Native Delicacies
As I savored the native delicacies—candy bananas that melted in my mouth and refreshing jelly coconuts that quenched my thirst I noticed my mates eagerly stuffing their luggage with groceries, the sheer quantity of which numbered round ten luggage. This scene superbly underscored the market’s function as a vibrant hub of cultural and culinary alternate. Each Wednesday, I seen vehicles coming in from the countryside. They have been stuffed with brilliant vegetables and fruit. The farmers’ smiling faces made me pleased. They have been heading to Coronation Market after a busy weekend.
As I made my method round Curnashan Market, a profound change washed over me, reshaping my understanding and notion of this lively community. The colourful colours, attractive aromas, and dynamic power of the market confronted my earlier notions, fostering a deep appreciation for the energy and spirit of Jamaica’s group markets. The sheer expanse of the market, bustling with a vibrant tapestry of sellers hawking their wares and customers eagerly navigating the crowded aisles, offered a scene I had hardly ever encountered elsewhere on the island.
Coronation Market: A Cultural Gem
I sit up for future visits. Particularly, to share these experiences with my mates from the diaspora. I do know they are going to get pleasure from them as a lot as I did.
As I conclude this text, I’m impressed by how my latest go to to Coronation Market displays the themes of my forthcoming e-book, “From Shadows to Sunshine: The Story of My Childhood.” This vibrant journey by way of bustling stalls and wealthy histories revived cherished recollections and enhanced my appreciation for resilience and group spirit, core parts of my narrative. I invite you to hitch me on this significant exploration within the pages of my e-book. Kotch and wait. It quickly come!

Diaspora Strategist & Engagement Advocate
Chairman
Jamaica Diaspora Taskforce Motion Community
(JDTAN)